When legendary costume designer Edith Head shared her thoughts on fashion’s enduring impact on film with Women’s Wear Daily in 1975, she emphasized the critical role of costume design in storytelling. By then, Head had witnessed it all; except, as she noted, a naked male star. “We’re [costume designers] often merely reflecting the climate and the mood of the world around us,” she told WWD.
Every year, award season reignites conversations about the magic of cinema and fashion and this year is no different. It’s impossible to ignore the power of the partnership and cultural influence fashion has on and off the screen. Here a look back at moments of fashion’s enduring connection to film.
1920-1930s
By the mid-1920s WWD was already “on the set,” documenting how cinema shaped fashion. In an interview with costume designer Clare West, she recalled director Cecil B. DeMille’s vivid instructions for his 1920s comedy-drama “Why Change Your Wife.”
“Make me a gown…which would set a man to caress the wearer one moment and make him want to kill her the next!” DeMille exclaimed. West delivered with a striking, black negligee worn by Gloria Swanson, creating one of fashion’s earliest “revenge” dress.
Going to the movie theater soon became a cultural cornerstone, bringing rapid fashion evolution to mainstream audiences. Designers Rene Huller and Howard Greer wardrobed starlets Clara Bow, Sandra Bernhardt, Josephine Baker, Poli Negri and Louise Brooks. Brooks’ iconic bob and Jean Patou-designed costumes in “Pandora’s Box” would be synonymous with 1920s chic, solidifying Brooks as the style icon of the era.
Louise Brooks, ca. 1920. Courtesy Everett Images Zendaya in Thierry Mugler fall 1995. Getty Images
There were also fashion and costume designer Adrian’s groundbreaking creations for “The Wizard of Oz”…